History of Leather in Clothing
Leather as a medium to create clothing dates back to CroMagnon man some 50,000 years ago. Around that time, early humans began to migrate from relatively warm regions of the earth to the more northerly and colder parts of the northern hemisphere. Although prehistoric people learned that animal skins could be used to keep warm, they would have encountered difficulties in using untreated skins: when dried, animal skins get stiff. Among the many discoveries made by our ancient ancestors, the preservation (tanning) and processing of animal skins was one of the most important to their survival. They did this through a variety of means, such as boiling the skins in tree bark and then salting them. Almost all preservation techniques concluded with rubbing the skins with animal fat to soften them, and bending and working the skins (or chewing them) until they became soft. This would render the skins soft enough so that they could be comfortably worn and tied around the body. Later, bone tools (such as needles and awls) were developed so that skins could be sewn together to create clothing.
As far back as the fifth to the third millennium B.C., there is evidence that women wore garments made of leather in Sumeria and Mesopotamia. An almost perfectly preserved gazelle skin loincloth dating from 1580-1350 B.C.E. was found in Egypt. There are also numerous references to leather found in the Bible. Tanneries were uncovered in the ruins of Pompeii.
While animal skins were usually tanned for the purpose of showing off the skin's "grain" (outer) side, eventually it was discovered that otherwise unusable skins (e.g., grain sides were scratched) could be salvaged by processing the inside of the skins. Such "inside-out" leather was the forerunner of suede.
Over time, many countries, such as Spain, England, and France, began to perfect their own tanning techniques.
These sometimes included novel refinements; for example, during the seventeenth century, the French would cover up the disagreeable odor left on skins after tanning by bathing the skins in perfume.
In North America, Native Americans introduced early European settlers to the technique of oil tanning. American Indians made tepees out of leather and decorated their leather clothing with beads, bones, porcupine quills, and feathers. They also painted their garments with elaborate battle scenes. Through their exceptional tanning skills, they were able to produce white leather, a particularly difficult color to achieve.
During the nineteenth century, Augustus Schultz, an American chemist, invented a newer, faster method of tanning using chromium salts. This innovation made it possible to reduce the tanning process from weeks and months to hours. Engineers in America and Europe began to invent special machines and processes that further increased tanning productivity. By 2004, tanneries around the world closely guarded proprietary techniques to give themselves a competitive advantage. Many tanneries are exploring the eco-friendly method of vegetable tanning, using extracts from quebracho wood and chestnut.
Designers throughout history have regarded leather as having a certain allure. From the earliest decorated ceremonial garments worn by tribesmen to high fashion couture collections, the wearing of leather has been synonymous with status. Because of the high cost and craftsmanship involved in the processing of leather, leather represents "luxury."
Leather has also been used for thousands of years to make sandals and shoes. In addition, it has had important industrial uses, for example to make drive belts for industrial machinery.
Upper Paleolithic Period
Leather has been used to create clothing since the existence of Cro-Magnon man during the Upper Paleolithic Period in Europe approximately 50,000 years ago. This time period saw man migrate from warmer regions of the earth to the northern hemisphere where it was significantly colder.
The colder climate saw prehistoric man learning that animal skins could be used to create clothing and they used a variety of methods in order to treat the skin such as boiling the skins in tree bark to soften them and almost all methods ended in rubbing the skins with animal fat in order to maintain the pliability.
Sumeria and Mesopotamia
There is also evidence that the women of Sumeria and Mesopotamia wore garments made of leather as far back as the 5th-3rd millennium B.C and an almost entirely preserved gazelle skin loincloth dating from 1580-1350 B.C.E. was found in Egypt in the early 1900s.
Over the centuries following, many countries such as France, Spain, and England began to perfect their own tanning techniques which turned into thriving businesses.
Native American Oil Tanning
While Europe was perfecting their own techniques long before the rise of online blackjack, Native Americans introduced Early European settlers in North America to the technique of oil tanning.
Using the animal skins treated with oil tanning, the Native Americans created leather tepees which they decorated with bones, beads, feathers, and porcupine quills and they also painted their garments with elaborate designs.
Owing to their exceptional tanning skills, the Native Americans were able to produce white leather which is an exceptionally difficult colour to achieve.
A Faster Method of Tanning
Then, during the 19th century, an American chemist Augustus Schultz discovered a faster method of tanning by making use of chromium salts. Schultz’s innovation made it possible to reduce the time tanning took from weeks and months to just a few hours and engineers in America and Europe began to invent machinery and processes which further increased tanning productivity.
Today, the processes and techniques of tanneries around the world are closely guarded proprietary secrets in order to maintain a competitive advantage. Some of these tanneries are even experimenting with vegetable tanning as an animal-friendly alternative to animal leather.
The Allure of Leather in Fashion
Leather has held a certain allure to fashion designers throughout history and from the earliest ornamental garments worn by tribesmen to high fashion couture collections, the wearing of leather has always been equated with status.
Leather represents luxury owing to the high cost and specialised craftsmanship required to process it and leather has also been used for thousands of years to create shoes and sandals.